Nibsy’s

You can’t talk about Nibsy’s, I don’t think, without using the G word: I considered writing this whole review and only mentioning gluten – or the lack of it, I should say – at the end, but I decided that it just wasn’t possible. Besides, it’s a big part of how Nibsy’s markets itself (their slogan is “for the love of coffee and all things gluten-free”). Personally, I’ve never had a problem with gluten but I know many people do, and I’m sure a lot of them thought it was an absolute godsend when Nibsy’s opened last summer.

You can however, I hope, write about Nibsy’s without being patronising about gluten free food. Whatever you think about the rights and wrongs of an increasing number of people adopting a gluten free diet, I reckon the food at Nibsy’s deserves to be judged on its merits and not patted on the head as “not bad, considering”. Besides, if anything I’ve generally found that menus that specifically exclude something tend to be more imaginative to make up for it – take Bhel Puri House for example, where you could easily eat all manner of delicious food without realising that everything is vegetarian – so I turned up with an empty stomach and an open mind for a long overdue lunchtime visit.

The first thing to mention is that Nibsy’s looks very different from most of the other independents in town. There’s nothing shabby chic about it: in fact, it could teach most chains a thing or two about presentation. Everything is smart and professional looking and the branding is beautiful, from the writing on the windows, to the mugs, to the packaging for the sandwiches and salad. Although I sat outside, soaking up the sun, the interior is lovely and gets everything right: the furniture is mismatched without being scruffy, it’s cosy without being dishevelled and immaculately clean without being clinical. You only realise how difficult this balance is when you see somewhere like Nibsy’s do it so well.

I get the impression from Nibsy’s Facebook feed that the menu changes on a regular basis. It’s pretty wide – a range of sandwiches, toasted and untoasted, and a couple of salads in the fridges and a quiche behind the counter. We ordered a toasted sandwich and a slice of quiche and were told that the sandwich would come out quicker. This struck me as odd – if you know the quiche takes longer to heat up and you’re serving two hot dishes why not synchronise them and start the sandwich later? Inevitably this meant that we got to try our dishes after the other, instead of having the companionable lunch we were expecting. I thought that was a pity: I might have been “on duty” but it’s not all business, you know.

The toasted sandwich contained a generously gooey helping of mozzarella, some lovely salty black olives and good quality sundried tomatoes. Nothing complicated there, you might think, but with toasties it’s all about the balance and the execution and both were impeccable – I’ve had far too many toasted sandwiches in Reading where the inside is lukewarm or the outside is charred and Nibsy’s didn’t make either mistake. Apart from being slightly denser than usual, I didn’t really notice anything different about the bread – it helped that it was perfectly golden and crisp (I think some butter had been spread on the outside before grilling, which – in my book at least – is how you make a perfect toastie). I loved it from start to finish: if anything my only reservation was that, because it wasn’t the biggest sandwich in the world, start and finish were a bit closer together than I might personally have chosen.

NibsyToastie

The feta and spring onion quiche arrived a mere moment after the sandwich was done. C’est la vie. It was well worth waiting for, though. The pastry was crisp and crumbly (you would never have known it was gluten free, in my opinion) and the filling was fabulous – incredibly cheesy, chock full of spring onions and also with some red pepper and (I think) rocket. Honestly, it was terrific and (I’m happy to say, given the size of the toastie) extremely generous. I wasn’t so convinced by the salad that came with it, however – a big pile of iceberg lettuce. Personally I think of iceberg as the triumph of texture over taste, so I was surprised to see it used here, especially with nothing else in the salad to liven it up. It was dressed, at least, but even then it wasn’t terribly exciting, so I left most of it.

NibsyQuiche

Having heard many rave reviews of Nibsy’s cakes I felt I’d be letting the side down if I didn’t order a few to try the full range of options (although, in the interests of full disclosure, I ought also to declare that I am an enormous – in both senses – fan of cake). The range is impressive: a plethora of sponge cakes, shortbreads and brownies to equal anything you’d find over in Picnic or Workhouse. It was extremely difficult to narrow it down, and a bit of me is still wondering now when I can try the coconut praline cake, or the orange and almond cake, topped with shiny, sticky slices of bright fruit.

Instead, I tried the lemon drizzle cake, possibly the biggest misfire of my meal. Unlike most lemon drizzle cakes I’ve had this wasn’t a loaf, rather it was a layered sponge with lemon curd in the middle. I think maybe lemon drizzle was a misnomer as I didn’t detect any drizzling, no glorious layer of crackling sugar on top, and apart from the lemon curd it lacked the tart zinginess I was expecting. If anything, it was more like a slightly dry Madeira cake – not bad in itself, certainly not bad enough to complain about but not what I was expecting. Not good enough to finish eating, either, and that’s a sad thing to say about any cake.

NibsyLemon

Redemption arrived in the form of the chocolate brownie. “Quite a lot of people don’t finish this” I was told as it was brought to the table, a big slab of cocoa-rich badness. Well, all I can say is that those people have a level of restraint I will never master, and they probably find it easier to buy clothes than I do. It was truly superb – rich and dark without being too bitter or too sweet. I was lucky to get a corner piece so I could properly appreciate the contrast between the crumbly, chewy edges and the soft middle, almost like a ganache. No nuts, no chocolate chips in there – nothing that would distract you from something so perfect. I ate it with a lot of joy and a little too much haste, and by the end I had no regrets about possibly missing out on anything else.

NibsyBrownie

On the side we had Earl Grey and a latte. The Earl Grey – unbranded, so I don’t know who it was by – was served in a small teapot, bagged rather than loose, and was good enough for me to have a second pot (and that was even before I knew the lemon cake would be on the dry side). I’m told the latte was very good – not quite as good as Tamp or Workhouse, better than Picnic or My Kitchen, pretty much up there with Tutti Frutti. There’s not a huge amount of interaction in a café but the service was friendly, smiley and efficient, the glitch around timings aside. The total bill for two lunches, two pieces of cake and three hot drinks was twenty-one pounds. I think that’s pretty much fair enough: if anything was slightly on the pricey side the quality easily made up for it.

If it’s hard to review Nibsy’s without mentioning the G word, it’s even harder to sum up a review without using it. But let’s put to one side for one minute the fact that, for some people in Reading, this is the only place they can realistically go and have lunch without worrying, and judge Nibsy’s on its merits. Good coffee. Good tea. Tasty toasties and a quiche I’m already fantasising about eating again. A brownie that can match any other brownie in town. A huge range of other cakes, tantalisingly in view just down the culinary road less travelled. The only G word we should be using here is great. So yes, on its merits Nibsy’s is an excellent addition to Reading’s food scene and, whatever your dietary requirements, you should consider going there next time you either want lunch or afternoon tea. They may have taken one ingredient out, but to me there isn’t anything missing.

Nibsy’s – 7.7
26 Cross Street, RG1 1SN
0118 9597809

http://www.nibsys.com/

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6 thoughts on “Nibsy’s

  1. Susan

    As a person who has a long term problem with gluten and lots of intolerances of other things. I would have to say I was very pleased to be told about Nibsys.
    Its fantastic they exist, and I wish there was a Nibsys nearer to where I live. I’d be in there EVERY day
    I’m often frustrated when visiting lots of other food outlets who pretend to offer gluten free as its generally on a very minimal scale.
    If you visit again why not eat inside as there is also seating downstairs. The staff are lovely and always very helpful.
    Although I liked of the positive comments but felt to criticise portion size was mean.
    If the writer has a larger appetite then perhaps it might have a better idea for them to admit it and order two portions!
    Re the Lemon cake, lots of alternative versions exist for lemon drizzle cake, if it was felt by the writer that this cake was mi-described why didn’t they talk to the staff and make helpful suggestions.

    1. As you say, it’s a positive review so it’s interesting that you pick up on the two negatives in it.

      I couldn’t disagree more about portion size. I think that’s a relevant factor for most diners (not just greedy ones like me!) Ultimately, it will be important for places like Nibsy’s, too, because people won’t order two sandwiches. They’ll go elsewhere and order a bigger sandwich. Having eaten at, and reviewed, many other lunch places in town I think it’s fair comment to say a small sandwich is on the small side.

      As for the cake, it’s a shame the staff didn’t ask about it when they took my not-quite-empty plate away. I would have said something if it had been actively bad or totally not what I had ordered. As it was I filed it under disappointing and mentioned it in the review instead.

  2. Cuppiesncream

    LOVE that you reviewed Nibsy’s and I was only wondering a week or so ago if you would. I have Coeliac disease and as I only work around the corner I often pop in for a sandwich! It’s so nice to be able to eat bread that actually tastes like bread! 🙂 Oh, and I totally ate the full brownie too, but agree that occasionally I have thought the cake was a little dry but know how temperamental baking gluten free cake can be.

  3. Naomi

    Hello Edible Reading!!

    Naomi here; business owner 🙂

    Having a lazy Sunday and doing some ‘googling’ and re-visited your review.
    Now 3 open just over 3 years and reading back on your review it’s really interesting because I agree with everything you’ve said, and believe some of the constructive things have been much improved!

    Our lemon cake is ‘moist’ (sorry for using this word!) and the homemade curd better than ever. Although due to the nature of sponge cakes, we only make this cake when we know expect to be busy and get though it very quickly.

    Our side salad for quiches (and Now vegetarian and even vegan pizza) is bigger and more colourful (but the price has remained the same). And our brownie hasn’t changed BUT we’ve got a new version we sometimes make alongside it, which has had great feedback.

    As well as gluten-free, we try and offer vegan where poss.

    I just want to say thanks for such a honest, positive and encouraging review. At the time I remember being ecstatic. 🙂

  4. Naomi

    Oops, a typo….!! *Now open 3 years; looks like it says we have 3 shops! We don’t!! Just the one!! And the smiles don’t look very happy but they are meant to be smiles!

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